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Why We Graze for Balance (Not Just Growth)

written by

Prairie Foods

posted on

July 11, 2025

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We graze our cows in a way that lets them consume both fresh green grass and older brown grass at the same time. It’s not by accident—it’s because cows, like engines, need a precise balance to run well.

Michelle, a mentor of ours from Africa, once compared grazing to maintaining an engine. An engine needs the right mix of gas, oil, and air. Too much of one—or not enough of another—and it doesn’t run right. Cows are similar. Their “engine” runs on protein, energy, and fiber. If any of those are out of balance, things fall apart.

Most conventional farms fix these imbalances by supplementing forage with corn (energy), soy (protein), and sometimes straw (fiber). But as graziers, we aim to achieve this balance through forage alone. No grain. No shortcuts.

The hardest part? Energy.

Spring grass is lush and green—high in protein, but often lacking energy and fiber. Think of it like running an engine with all oil, no gas, and no air. Cows grazing only early spring grass may look like they’re getting plenty, but it’s an imbalanced diet that can hurt performance and digestion.

That’s why we intentionally graze cows on a mix of new growth and leftover brown grass or dry hay. These older, more fibrous forages slow the rumen down and help convert those lush greens into usable nutrition.

We also try to graze just the top three inches of grass, where the energy is highest. Protein levels tend to be consistent throughout the blade, but energy drops the closer you get to the base. The more deeply cows graze, the more unbalanced their intake becomes.

Timing Matters

Cool-season grasses grow quickly in the spring—going from a tiny blade to a mature, seed-headed plant in just three weeks. The sweet spot for grazing is right before that seed head appears. For about one week, the grass naturally offers the ideal balance of protein, energy, and fiber. Cows thrive. Milk production increases. Weight gain accelerates.

But that moment doesn’t last. Once grasses go to seed, they become fiber-dense and lose nutritional punch. That’s why spring grazing requires careful timing—and sometimes a little compromise.

If we wait too long, the grass gets too mature. If we graze too early, the protein outweighs everything else. On our farm, we usually start spring grazing with a bit of hay to rebalance the fiber-to-protein ratio, then gradually transition as the pastures hit their prime.

Still, we can't graze the entire farm in one perfect week. So some pastures get grazed a little early, others a little late. That’s okay. It's all decent feed—and we’re doing the best we can with what nature offers.

Beyond the 30-Day Rule

Traditional grazing advice often recommends re-grazing cool-season grasses around 30 days after the last rotation. That’s when grass typically hits peak energy and protein levels.

But we’ve found that waiting 40–50 days offers something better: balance.

Yes, the energy and protein levels may be slightly lower than at 30 days—but they’re more in sync with each other, and fiber content is higher. The result is a more complete feed that supports long-term animal health and stronger rumen function.

Sometimes, less is more.

Cattle might grow a little slower or give a bit less milk, but we’ve noticed major improvements in overall wellness—better foot health, fewer issues with pinkeye or breeding, and richer flavor in the meat. Our dairy cows may give slightly less volume, but their milk is higher in cream and has better flavor and shelf-life.

It’s Not Just About the Cow

This grazing method doesn’t just benefit the animal—it benefits the soil. And that’s the best part of the story.

When we balance our cows’ diets with the right kinds of forages, we’re also feeding our soil microbes the right kinds of carbon. This balance underground is every bit as important as the one above ground.

We’ll unpack that in the next newsletter—how grazing timing, residue, and carbon all play a role in building soil fertility the regenerative way.

A Note to Fellow Graziers

This is what’s working well on our farm. It’s not the only way, and it may not be the best way for everyone. Every farm has its own rhythms, resources, and goals. If you’ve found a system that works well for your herd and your land, we’d love to hear from you.

Let’s keep learning together.

More from the blog

🥳 Yay, our chicken is officially corn & soy free! No GMOs and better fats.

Been sitting on this one for a while. Truth is, we switched our birds over to corn and soy free feed when our first meat chickens went on pasture this past spring. But we still had older GMO-free chicken in the freezers... and it didn't feel right to announce something we couldn't actually hand you yet. So we waited. Sold through the old inventory. Kept quiet about it. That part's done, and we're excited to announce that: Every chicken we've got now is corn and soy free. What they're eating An organically grown blend of peas, wheat, canola oil, fishmeal, aragonite, grit, molasses, vitamins, minerals, and probiotics. NO corn. NO soy. And now you might be wondering, why? Why is this important? Well it all started when our amazing customers started requesting it. And, after doing our own research, we felt it was definitely a worthwhile endeavor. Let's dive into some reasons why: First, the GMO thing Here's where things actually stand in this country. USDA numbers for 2025: 94% of corn acres planted are biotech varieties. 96% of soybean acres are planted with herbicide resistant seed. That's not most of it... that's basically all of it. And on the chicken side, certified organic is less than 1% of US chicken production. Under one percent. Everything else is eating conventional grain, which means it's eating GMO corn and GMO soy. So when you buy chicken at the store (or get it served to you at a restaurant), you're not really making a choice about GMOs. That choice got made for you at the feed mill. Why does it matter? I'll be straight with you. Nobody has run a fifty year study feeding this stuff to families and watching what happens. That study doesn't exist. What we have is about thirty years of everybody eating it and finding out together. And it's not as easy as you fall and break your leg. That's a clear cause and effect. Any negative effects of eating GMOs are more nuanced. I'm talking underlying, chronic issues developing over many many years. And here's the part that bothers me most. These crops weren't engineered to be more nutritious. Most of them were engineered to survive being sprayed. That's the actual purpose (oh, and making cheaper food). Which means the GMO question and the chemical question were never really two separate questions. Even organic corn isn't a clean answer, by the way. Corn cross-pollinates. Pollen blows. Organic fields sit right next to GMO fields across the whole Midwest, and drift is just part of the deal out there. We're not in that conversation at all anymore. You can't cross-pollinate corn into a pea. The allergy piece, and why it's so hard on you Let me say the quiet part first. Soy allergy, the diagnosed kind, is not that common. Around 0.4% of kids. True corn allergy is rarer still, somewhere well under 1%.  But those numbers are almost beside the point, because nobody is counting the people I actually hear from. Corn or soy intolerance has no test. There's no blood panel, no scratch test, no code a doctor can write down. Which means it doesn't show up in anyone's statistics. About 17% of people say some food is causing them problems, and the medical system confirms maybe 1% of that with a formal challenge. You can read that gap however you want. What I know is that a whole lot of people are out there sorting this out alone, by elimination, with no label to help them and no number to point to when somebody tells them it's in their head. And the system is not built to help them: Corn isn't a labeled allergen. Not one of the big nine. So there is no legal requirement anywhere to tell you corn is in something. You're reading ingredient lists hunting for maltodextrin, citric acid, dextrose, "natural flavors," modified food starch, and about forty other things that are corn wearing a different hat. Nobody is helping you. And refined soybean oil is exempt from soy labeling. The FDA doesn't require it declared as an allergen. So a product can contain soybean oil and say nothing about soy on the label at all. That's the part that makes people crazy. It isn't that the allergy is exotic. It's that the system genuinely is not built to help you find this stuff, and you're doing it anyway, in the grocery aisle, with kids in the cart. Then there's the layer underneath. We hear from customers who react to chicken from birds that were fed corn and soy. Not to corn on the cob. To the chicken. They're sensitive enough that whatever comes through the animal is enough to set them off. I don't have a lab study for that and I'm not going to pretend I do. But we've heard it from enough people to take it seriously. If that's you, or that's your kid, you already know how few things you can just say yes to. You can say yes to this. Glyphosate, and why we care Here's the connection most folks miss. Roundup Ready crops were engineered specifically to survive glyphosate. So the more of those crops got planted, the more glyphosate got sprayed. US glyphosate use went up roughly sixteen fold between 1992 and 2009. That climb tracks the GMO rollout almost exactly. That's why we treat "no GMOs" and "no glyphosate" as one thing instead of two. So what's actually wrong with it? In 2015 the World Health Organization's cancer agency (IARC) classified glyphosate as probably carcinogenic to humans. They based that on sufficient evidence of cancer in animals, limited evidence in humans pointing mostly at non-Hodgkin lymphoma, and strong evidence that it damages DNA and drives oxidative stress. Now, plenty of regulators disagree. The EPA and others have looked at the same research and come to different conclusions. This is a real fight among serious people and I'm not going to stand here and tell you it's settled. But think about what's being argued over. The question on the table is whether the most sprayed chemical in the world probably causes cancer. That's the debate. Not whether it's good for you. Whether it probably causes cancer. I don't need that argument resolved to make a decision for my family. Our feed is organically grown, so glyphosate isn't coming in the front door. And cutting corn and soy removes the two crops it gets used on most heavily. It also gets sprayed on some conventional grains as a pre-harvest dry-down, wheat and oats and peas and canola included, which is exactly why the organic and local sourcing matters as much as the corn and soy part does. The omega 6 to 3 ratio A bird's fat ends up looking like whatever the bird ate. That's not a theory, it's just how these animals work. Feed corn and soy, and you get an animal loaded with way more omega 6s than omega 3s. Omega 6 and omega 3 are both fats you need. What matters is the balance, because they compete for the same enzymes and the same spots in your cells. Whichever one you eat more of wins. The typical American diet runs about 16 to 1. Before industrial food, people ate closer to 1 to 1. That gap does real damage over time. Dr. Artemis Simopoulos has spent decades linking a high ratio to cardiovascular disease, cancer, osteoporosis, and inflammatory and autoimmune conditions. In her research, rheumatoid arthritis patients saw inflammation drop at 2 or 3 to 1. Asthma patients did better at 5 to 1 and worse at 10 to 1. And it's slow. Omega 6 parks in your tissue and stays there for years, which means what you feed your kids now is arithmetic that shows up decades from now. So what does pulling corn and soy actually do? A farm in Minnesota got grant funding and tested it properly. Two sets of pastured chickens side by side, same grass, same hoop houses moved to fresh ground every day. The only difference was the feed. The corn and soy birds came back at 11 to 1. The corn and soy free birds came back at 1.3 to 1. Same sunshine, same pasture. All of that difference came out of the bucket. Now the part nobody mentions. Taking corn and soy out is only half the job. Plenty of feed sold as corn and soy free just swaps in other high omega 6 ingredients and lands right back where it started. The ration has to be built on purpose. Ours runs on peas and wheat, low fat to begin with, with fishmeal for the omega 3 side. Bring the six down, bring the three up. We haven't tested our own birds yet. My guess is we land somewhere between 1 to 1 and 4 to 1, but that's a guess and I'll call it one. When we test, you'll get the number either way. You've probably already thrown out the seed oils in your kitchen. This is that same fight, one step further back. Because those oils don't only show up in a bottle on the shelf. They show up in the animals. Why there's no flax in the feed Flax is the obvious shortcut for omega-3s. Plenty of good farms use it. We decided against it, for two reasons. The first is conversion. Flax gives you ALA. Your body has to convert ALA into EPA and DHA before it can really do anything with it, and that conversion is poor in people and in birds both. Fishmeal skips the middleman. It brings EPA and DHA already made, in the form your body is actually looking for. A chicken fed flax reads well on a label. A chicken fed fishmeal delivers the thing the label is pointing at. The second is hormones. Flax is the richest source of lignans of any food on earth, by a wide margin, and lignans are phytoestrogens. Plant compounds that act on estrogen receptors in your body. Mainstream nutrition mostly treats that as a benefit. The Weston A. Price Foundation and others have long argued the opposite, that loading a developing body with plant compounds that mimic hormones is not something to do casually, especially for kids and especially for anyone already dealing with hormone trouble. We're not going to settle that argument in a blog post. But we don't have to. Here's our rule for the feed: if something is hormonally active and we don't strictly need it, it doesn't go in. We already have a better omega-3 source. So flax has no job here. We're not trying to engineer a supplement. We're trying to feed a bird something close to what a bird ought to eat, and let your body do the rest. About the canola oil Somebody's going to ask, so let me get out in front of it. Yes, there's canola oil in the ration. It's organically grown, and it's a small piece of the overall feed. Birds need some fat. They need energy. The question is which fat. Canola runs roughly half the polyunsaturated fat of soybean oil and carries a much better omega 6 to 3 balance. At our scale, it's the best option on the table right now. If a better option shows up, we'll change with it. And we'll tell you when we do. What this actually means for your family You already read labels. You already ask the questions most people never think to ask. You've probably had that moment where you find something that looks clean, dig one layer deeper, and find out it wasn't. That's an exhausting way to feed a family, and most people around you have no idea you're doing it. This is us digging that layer for you, before you have to ask. No GMOs. No glyphosate. Nothing in the feed for a sensitive kid to react to. No added phytoestrogens. And a fat profile we're proud of. Same birds. Same pasture. Same families raising them. Just better feed. Y'all asked for this for a long time. Thanks for pushing.

Let's talk egg yolks and whites. What makes them change?

If you've ordered our pastured eggs more than once, you may have noticed something: they don't always look exactly the same. The yolk might be a deep orange one week and a softer yellow the next. The whites might be thick and firm one time and a little more watery another. That's not a quality control problem. It's actually the opposite! It's a sign that our eggs are the real thing. Let us explain. First, the yolk. The color of an egg yolk comes down to one thing: carotenoids. These are natural pigments found in plants, grasses, flowers, and insects that hens eat. When a hen consumes carotenoid-rich food, those pigments get deposited directly into the yolk as it forms. The more carotenoids she consumes, the deeper the color. Lutein and zeaxanthin produce yellow tones, while beta-cryptoxanthin and other carotenoids shift the yolk toward orange and red. So the yolk color is essentially a record of what your hen has been eating lately. Here's where things get interesting... and where most farms take a shortcut. The industry caught on. The "deep orange yolk = pasture raised" idea became so popular that conventional farmers figured out how to game it. The feed industry now sells ready-made yolk color packs (literal products designed to dial in whatever color a farmer wants their yolks to be). Commercial farmers use coloring agents in chicken feed to influence egg yolk color. These range from natural additives like marigold and paprika all the way to synthetic pigments not found anywhere in nature. The result is a yolk that looks like something it isn't, engineered to match a consumer expectation rather than reflect what the hen actually ate. You can buy whatever shade you want. Yellow, orange, deep orange, almost red. It's a product decision, not a farming one. At Prairie Foods, we don't do that. Our hens' feed contains zero colorants, not even natural ones. So when you see color variation in our eggs, it's telling you something real. What's actually changing the color? It's whatever is growing in the pasture that week. Here are some real examples of what our hens forage and how it affects yolk color: Plants that tend to produce yellower yolks: Grasses and clovers — rich in lutein and zeaxanthin, which produce golden yellow tones Dandelion greens — high in lutein Seeds — produce a warm yellow without much orange shift Plants that tend to produce more orange yolks: Wildflowers and certain weeds — carry beta-carotene and other deeper carotenoids Insects and grubs — bugs and larvae are good sources of protein, carotene, and healthy fats, and hens that forage naturally and eat insects lay eggs with deeper, more orange yolks Right now, in the middle of summer, our yolks are running more golden yellow than deep orange... and that's actually a good example of how specific this gets. It's not about how green or lush the pasture is. It's about what's growing in it and what the hens choose to eat.  Right now it looks like our flock is grazing heavily on clover and dandelion, either because that's what's most abundant in their pasture right now or simply because that's what they're opting for. Both are high in lutein and zeaxanthin, which produce golden yellow tones rather than deep orange. As the pasture changes and the hens' foraging choices shift, so will the yolks. So if your yolks look a little lighter than last time, it doesn't mean anything is wrong. It means the eggs are connected to a real place and a real season. That's something a factory egg can never be. Now, the whites. This is a different conversation. The white (or albumen) can vary in thickness for several reasons, and it's worth knowing all of them so you're never caught off guard. All the reasons egg whites can be watery: Age of the egg. The most common cause is simple aging. As eggs sit in your fridge, the thick gel-like portion of the egg white gradually breaks down into a thinner, more liquid consistency through a well-understood chemical process. This is why truly fresh farm eggs tend to have noticeably thicker whites than store-bought eggs that have been sitting in distribution for weeks. Age of the hen. As hens get older, the thick albumen they produce naturally becomes thinner, even when the eggs are fresh. This is a well-documented shift in egg quality that begins after hens pass peak production age, typically after about 50 to 60 weeks. The ovomucin content in the whites of older hens is measurably lower, which means the eggs start out less viscous and decline faster in storage.  Heat stress. Hens experiencing heat stress can lay eggs with thinner whites. Warmer temperatures encourage enzyme activity that degrades the protein structures in albumen, leading to thinning. Chickens also drink more water in hot weather, and excess hydration dilutes egg whites. Nutrition. If hens are not getting enough high quality protein, whites can become thinner. Proper layer feed should contain around 16 to 18 percent protein. And of course, if they eat more of what they forage for instead of the feed, that affects the protein content, too. Stress. Sudden changes can affect egg quality. Moving coops, predator scares, loud storms, heat waves, or even a new flock member. When hens are stressed, their bodies shift into survival mode and egg quality can dip. Disease. Bronchitis (and other illnesses) can affect the ability of the bird to produce thick albumen, and even after a complete recovery, a hen can still lay eggs with watery whites for the rest of her life. Storage temperature. Cold temperatures slow down CO2 loss and the enzymatic breakdown of proteins. Eggs that were briefly exposed to heat during transport and then returned to the fridge can still show accelerated thinning. What's happening right now with our pastured eggs: If you've noticed our whites running a little thinner lately, we can tell you exactly why: it's the heat. Our flock is young, so hen age isn't the variable here. But it's been hot, and hens experiencing heat stress lay eggs with thinner whites. Warmer temperatures encourage enzyme activity that degrades the protein structures in albumen, and hens drink more water in hot weather, which dilutes the whites further. This is temporary and expected. As temperatures drop in the fall, you should see the whites firm back up. The eggs are perfectly safe and just as nutritious... they just won't poach as beautifully right now. A watery white is not a safety issue. The egg white's antimicrobial properties come from proteins like lysozyme and ovotransferrin, which are present regardless of whether the white is thick or thin. The real safety concerns with eggs are unrelated to albumen consistency and are addressed by proper cooking and refrigeration. If your whites are on the thinner side, use those eggs in a scramble, a frittata, or a bake rather than a poached egg where the structure of the white matters more. They'll work perfectly. The bottom line. Color variation in the yolk and occasional variation in the whites are both signs of eggs that come from a real place: a pasture that changes with the seasons, hens that live outside in real weather, and a system that doesn't paper over any of that with feed additives and color correctors. At Prairie Foods, you're not getting a standardized product. You're getting the real thing. And we think that's worth understanding.

Raw soured milk. It's not "bad". Here's what you can do with it!

You open your fridge, grab the milk jug, and notice it smells a little... tangy. Maybe the texture is thicker than usual. Your first instinct? Dump it down the drain. Stop right there. If that's raw milk, you're about to throw away something incredibly useful. Soured raw milk isn't spoiled milk. It's fermented milk. And there's a big difference. Why Raw Milk Sours (And Why That's Not a Bad Thing) Raw milk is alive. It contains beneficial bacteria (lactobacillus and other lactic acid bacteria) that are naturally present in the milk. When raw milk sits in your fridge for a while, these bacteria start to consume the lactose (milk sugar) and convert it into lactic acid. This is a natural fermentation process. The milk gets tangier, thicker, and sourer over time. This is exactly what's supposed to happen. It's the same process that creates yogurt, kefir, buttermilk, and cheese... except those have specific cultures added. With sour milk, the fermentation happens by the naturally occurring beneficial bacteria in raw milk. Soured Raw Milk vs. Spoiled Pasteurized Milk Here's the key difference: Pasteurized milk has had all its beneficial bacteria killed by heat. It's basically dead sugar water (a vector for pathogens). When pasteurized milk goes bad, it's rotting. It's being broken down by harmful bacteria that got in after pasteurization. It smells rotten, not sour. You absolutely should throw that away. It's dangerous. Raw milk is a whole different story. It has beneficial bacteria already in it, naturally. When raw milk sours, those good bacteria are doing their job. It smells tangy and yogurt-like, not rotten. It's fermented, not spoiled. Is Soured Raw Milk Safe? Yes, as long as it smells pleasantly sour (like yogurt or buttermilk) and not rotten or putrid.  The lactic acid bacteria lower the pH of the milk, which actually makes it harder for harmful bacteria to survive. That's why fermented foods have been used for thousands of years as a preservation method. The smell test: If it smells tangy, yogurt-like, and sour in a pleasant way → it's good. If it smells rotten, funky, or makes you recoil → toss it. It's a "trust your gut" moment. Don't Drink It. Use It. Soured raw milk might not be pleasant to drink straight. It's thick, tangy, and has separated into curds and whey. Not exactly what you want to pour over your cereal. But that doesn't mean it's useless. Far from it. Here are all the ways you can use soured raw milk instead of throwing it away. In the Kitchen Baking Soured raw milk is a perfect substitute for buttermilk in any recipe. Use it for: Biscuits Pancakes and waffles Quick breads (banana bread, zucchini bread, cornbread) Muffins Cakes The lactic acid reacts with baking soda to create a light, fluffy texture. Your baked goods will turn out tender and delicious. Chocolate Milk Make a simple syrup with maple syrup, water, and cocoa powder. Add it to soured milk. Voila. You've sweetened it back up to be palatable. Smoothies Add soured raw milk to smoothies for a tangy, probiotic-rich boost. It pairs well with berries, bananas, and honey. The sour flavor is similar to yogurt. Cheese Making Soured raw milk is the first step toward making simple cheeses: Cottage cheese: Heat it gently, drain the curds, and you've got fresh cottage cheese. If it doesn't separate, add an acid like vinegar or lemon juice to lower the pH more and separate the curds.  Farmer's cheese: Press the curds for a firmer cheese. Soft cheese spreads: Mix the curds with herbs and salt. Cultured Butter If your soured milk still has cream on top, skim it off and churn it into cultured butter. The tangy flavor is incredible on fresh bread. This is actually the traditional way to make butter in India. Salad Dressings Use soured raw milk to make creamy dressings and dips. Try our Raw Milk Ranch Dip Recipe for a tangy, probiotic-rich version of the classic. Marinades The lactic acid in soured milk tenderizes meat beautifully. Use it to marinate chicken, pork, or lamb before cooking. Lacto-Fermented Vegetables Strain out the whey (the liquid) from soured milk and use it as a starter for lacto-fermenting vegetables like sauerkraut, pickles, or kimchi. NO Yogurt or Kefir Sorry, this won't work. You see, yogurt and kefir cultures eat lactose (the milk sugar). If your milk has already soured, then there's not much less lactose left. And that means there's no food for the yogurt and kefir cultures. Clabber: The Old-Fashioned Cultured Milk If you let raw milk sit at room temperature (not in the fridge) for 1-3 days, it will naturally ferment into something called clabber. Clabber is thick, kind of yogurt-like, and has been consumed for thousands of years. It's a traditional food in many cultures and was a staple in American kitchens before refrigeration became common. What is Clabber? Clabber is raw milk that has been left to ferment at room temperature until it thickens, becomes tangy, and separates into curds and whey. The beneficial bacteria multiply, the lactose is broken down, and you're left with a thick, sour, probiotic-rich cultured curds and thin probiotic-rich whey. How to Make Clabber: Check out our Clabber Recipe for step-by-step instructions. What You Can Do With Clabber: Eat it like yogurt: Top with honey, fruit, or granola. Bake with it: Use it in place of buttermilk or sour cream. Make cheese: Separate the curds and whey. Use the curds for soft or harder pressed cheeses. Blend into smoothies: Add it for tang and probiotics. Feed to animals: Dogs, cats, chickens, and pigs love it. Use the whey: Strain it and use the whey for lacto-fermentation or as a probiotic drink. Clabber is one of the easiest fermented foods you can make. No special equipment, no starter culture. Just raw milk and time. For Animals Don't have time to use soured milk yourself? Your animals will be thrilled to have it. Dogs and Cats Soured raw milk is great for their digestion. The probiotics support gut health, and most pets love the tangy flavor. Pour it over their food or let them drink it straight. Chickens Chickens go crazy for soured milk. It's great for their digestion and egg production. Just pour it into a dish and watch them devour it. Pigs If you raise pigs, soured milk is a traditional part of their diet. It's nutritious and they love it. Other Uses Fertilizer for Plants Dilute soured milk with water (about 1 part milk to 4 parts water) and use it to water your plants. The nutrients and beneficial bacteria feed the soil. Hair Rinse This sounds weird, but it works. The lactic acid in soured milk is a gentle clarifier and conditioner for hair. Massage it into your scalp and hair, let it sit for a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Warning: It may make your hair smell if you don't rinse it all out. Skin Treatment Lactic acid is a gentle exfoliant. Use soured milk as a face mask or skin treatment. It's been used in beauty treatments for centuries (Cleopatra bathed in soured milk). The Bottom Line Soured raw milk is not spoiled milk. It's fermented milk. It's been consumed for thousands of years in cultures around the world. It's safe, it's useful, and it's packed with probiotics. So the next time your raw milk gets tangy, don't throw it away. Use it. Bake with it. Make cheese. Feed it to your animals. Turn it into clabber. There are dozens of ways to use soured raw milk, and all of them are better than pouring it down the drain. SHOP RAW MILK